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Lens Lab
COATINGS, DECODED
Anti-reflective, scratch, UV, hydrophobic — two deserve your money, one is already free, and one is pure upsell.
Lens coatings are where optical shops make their margin, so here's the unfiltered breakdown. Anti-reflective coating is the one worth paying for. It kills the ghost reflections that bounce off the front and back of your lenses — the glare in photos, the halo around headlights at night, the faint mirror of your own screen staring back at you. Modern premium AR is genuinely good, and it makes high-index lenses dramatically more wearable. Buy this one.
Scratch-resistant coating is not really a purchase — it should be the baseline. Polycarbonate and high-index lenses are soft enough that they need a hard coat to survive normal life. If a shop lists scratch coating as a paid add-on, ask whether it's already included in the lens price. It usually is. The real question is whether the coating is a cheap dip or a proper baked-on hard coat, and most shops won't volunteer that answer unless you ask.
UV protection is the freebie. Nearly every modern lens material — polycarbonate, Trivex, high-index, and even standard CR-39 with basic treatment — blocks essentially all UV on its own. You're not paying extra for UV protection in 2026; you're confirming it's there. The exception is fashion sunglasses with no stated UV rating, which you should never buy. Hydrophobic and oleophobic top coats — the ones that make water bead and fingerprints wipe off easily — are the nice-to-have. They make cleaning easier and are often bundled into premium AR packages. On their own, they're a luxury, not a necessity.
The upsell to question is the "premium blue-light coating" sold as a separate line item. Some of these are just lightly tinted lenses with a big story attached. See page 45 before you pay for one. *Talk to your eye doctor about which coatings your lenses actually need.*
"Anti-reflective is the purchase. UV is the freebie. Everything else is negotiable."